On the downward slide...mentally and physically readying myself to come home.
One tourist-y thing I had somehow managed to put off until this week was a commercial cruise on the Brisbane River. OK, maybe because it involved a boat and y'all know what a weenie I am when it comes to them. But it was a gorgeous sunny, cloudless day -- about 70 degrees on land -- and if I was going to get this panoramic view of the city, it was now or never. Jacked up on Dramamine, off I went.
On the water, I quickly found that nausea was at the bottom of my sensations: It was too cold to barf! Breezes straight from Antarctica blasted through that upper deck. All my energy went into not freezing to death. Still, it was an informative and pleasant enough voyage. Brisbane is a muscular city with a short, interesting history.
Last Sunday afternoon my new friend Carol and I attended a wonderful choral concert at the biggest church in town, St. John's Anglican Cathedral. It featured the majestic "Lux Aeterna" by the American composer Morten Lauridsen, which was simply glorious. There's to be another concert there this Sunday featuring four choirs. Oh boy, we can't wait! Afterward we have tickets to yet another concert -- this one at the big Queensland Performing Arts Center -- featuring a well-known Aboriginal singer, Gurrumul, backed by a small gospel choir and orchestra.
Sunday promises to wrap up my journey on a high, spiritual note.
So many wonderful things about this trip...At the top of the list, no contest, are the people. The Aussies have been, without exception, exceptional. After over six weeks, I think I can make some generalizations. Everyone I've encountered has been down-to-earth, friendly, kind, gracious -- I could go on and on. Not that Americans don't also possess these qualities, but let's face it, ever so often one of us is having a bad day and things can get ugly. (Admit it: We all go postal once in a while.) I think it's just remarkable that I haven't run into anybody out here in a foul mood -- or if they're feeling low, they don't let it affect anybody else.
Isn't that amazing? Nobody seems to take themselves too seriously. This lack of pretension and great sense of humor make the Aussies the most congenial people I've ever met. That's to take nothing away from the Brits, whom I love dearly. Maybe it's the result of their being shipped out here initially as convicts, but the Aussies have stripped away the British reserve and just hang themselves out there. What you see is what you get. They don't wait for anybody to strike up a conversation; they've never met a stranger. They'll go out of their way to help you, and do so with a smile. I love that!
I've also enjoyed being introduced to music by Australian composers. My favourite radio station out here, ABC Classic FM, makes a point of featuring Aussie musicians, and I've discovered quite a few pieces I had never heard before. Sweet!
At the risk of sounding churlish, I must mention one big downside of the trip: The food. Now, I realize I may put too much emphasis on food (one look at my hips tells the tale), but puh-LEAZE: I'm starving to death out here! When I actually do find something edible, it's a red-letter day. Food is astronomically expensive, both in restaurants and at the grocery store, and by and large, tasteless. Non-ethnic restaurants offer very little in the way of variety -- you've got your fish-and-chips and you've got your steak and burgers -- and heaven forbid they serve you a decent salad.
And as for condiments: They cost extra. Imagine having to pay for a dab of ketsup, mayo or tartar sauce. Ranch dressing? Forget it. Where oh where is Newman's Own when you need it?! Order waffles, and they come out of a freezer tasting like cardboard -- and you guessed it, syrup costs extra. I once asked for a side order of mushrooms on my steak, got HALF of a button mushroom, and was charged $3. I'm not making this up.
As for their hamburgers, here's what comes as standard: Tasteless ground beef, grilled onions, tomato paste and sliced beets. That's correct: Sliced beets. And sometimes pineapple. Mustard is extra.
If I crave a piece of fresh batter-fried fish, I have only to drive six miles to the edge of Moreton Bay, and get my fix for a mere $8.50. That's just for the fish. French fries, or chips, are extra. A thimble-sized Sprite (half-sized can) is $3.60. But to be fair, being able to eat my picnic across the street at a seaside table is priceless.
At the supermarket, you feel like Alice having just fallen through the rabbit hole: In American currency, an apple costs just under $1. An ounce, or a handful, of cherries, imported from the U.S., is $7.50. A whole watermelon is $44.00. A pound of local shrimp, $32. A dozen eggs, $4.50. A pint of ice cream, which turns out to be nasty: $5.00. Forget fresh veggies; you know they're tasteless and simply not worth the solid gold brick you'll have to exchange to buy them.
I've lived mostly on cheese, Nutella on toast, yogurt, orange-mango juice, milk, Cadbury chocolate bars, and fantasies of Yorkmont Farmer's Market produce, fried squash from Gus's, and Bojangle's biscuits.
Summing up on a positive note, Queensland -- the Sunshine State -- has more than lived up to its name. I've been here in the coldest month, July, and yet with few exceptions it has been sunny every day. The one blustery storm we had blew through and away overnight. The temps have dipped into the 40s at night and usually get into the mid-60s and 70s during the day, with very low humidity. I'm no fan of cold weather, but this has not been a bad way to experience winter.
But all in all, I'm ready to get back home to Charlotte, summer, and some DECENT FOOD! If I could just find a way to drag some of these nice folks and their sunny dispositions back with me...
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